was enjoying local lassi in a small shop down one of Varanasi’s many narrow alleyways the first time it happened — the first time I saw a departed body. It was wrapped in a white sheet and was being carried on a stretcher made of bamboo by four young men. Garlands of yellow marigolds were draped across it. The men weaved effortlessly through the crowds of tourists, locals and animals. Thinking back to that moment, what surprised me more than seeing the body was just how unaffected everyone seemed by its presence, man and beast casually continued about their daily activities. No-one so much as offered up a second glance in the direction.
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